IN modern world women do not spend as much time and energy on household chores as they used to. This is explained quite simply: the availability of household appliances helped to simplify life.
1. What is the washing machine made of
Regardless of the brand and brand, the technique of this type has the same internal structure. To purchase a quality appliance, you need to know how the automatic washing machine works.
It consists of the following elements:
- frame;
- water filling system;
- sensors;
- tank and drum;
- heater
- Control block;
- drain system;
- engine.
To understand the principles by which the device functions, for example, models, the owner must independently deal with the internal structure. This will help in the future to avoid difficulties in installing or repairing equipment.
Frame
All internal elements of the machine are located in a durable metal sheathing. It prevents the formation of damage, dents and scratches, keeps parts in working order.
Consists of the following elements:
1. Foundations.
2. Front, back and side walls.
3. Panels with a hatch.
4. Lids.
A control panel is located on the front part, there is also a compartment where you need to pour powder or other laundry detergents. They get inside with a jet of water. has a lock that prevents the door from opening when the machine is doing its job.
Water inlet system
After the washing program is selected, the machine starts up and the door is locked. First of all, an electromagnetic type valve opens, with the help of which water enters the drum. This action occurs until the sensor "notifies" that there is enough liquid in the tank to start washing.
To ensure uninterrupted water supply, the inlet hose is connected to the plumbing system.
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Tank and drum
One of the most voluminous elements is the tank. Depending on the size, it can hold from 3 to 12 kg of laundry. An example is a model with a capacity of 8 kg.
To avoid vibration during operation, the connection between the tank and the body is not rigid.
For support in the process of functioning, apply:
- 2-4 springs, which are located at the top;
- weighting agent to exclude oscillatory and vibratory movements;
- 2-4 mufflers in the lower tank compartment.
Such mechanisms guarantee the stability of the apparatus. In the tank there is a device with many holes through which, after switching on, the liquid supply begins.
Drainage system
After going through the cycle, you need to get rid of the soapy water. This process is carried out using a hose. It is a corrugated sleeve, the length of which ranges from 1 to 4 meters. It is attached on one side to the pump, and on the other - to the sewerage system.
During the washing period, draining occurs several times due to details such as:
- motor;
- impeller;
- "snail".
The electronic module is responsible for the operation of the synchronous pump.
Control block
It is one of the important parts of a washing machine, such as an apparatus. This device controls all microcircuits and is rightfully considered the “brain” of the device.
The block manages the following parts:
- heating element;
- tank and drum;
- drainage and water supply system;
- pump and others.
The knot is not only an important part of the washing machine, but also the most expensive. With its help, the type of breakdown, the complexity of the repair and the need to call the master are determined. To extend the service life, you should regularly carry out. It will help to avoid serious damage in the future.
Sensors
Correct and trouble-free functioning household appliances carried out with the help of special devices. They receive information from the machine during washing. Regulators include:
- Pressure switch. The main purpose is to monitor the level of water entering the tank.
- Air chamber. It is made of plastic and is located near the drain tube.
- Thermostat. With its help, the temperature of the water, which is located in the tank, is determined, after which the received data is sent to the control unit.
- Tachometer. Responsible for the number of revolutions that are necessary for the spin. Their number depends on the selected washing mode. The maximum number is 1600, as in the model.
Together, the sensors are essential components that control the entire workflow.
heating element
The heater is located in the inner part of the body and serves to increase the water temperature. Its power ranges from 1800 to 2200 watts. The tubular electric heater is located at the bottom and is the most fragile and vulnerable part.
The level of its work is affected by the formation of scale. To extend the life of the heater, it is necessary to use a plaque cleaner, for example,.
Engine
This part drives the drum. Often, a collector motor is installed on washing machines. The most effective method of fastening is direct drive, that is, the connection occurs directly to the drum.
This type does not need to consume energy to rotate in large volumes, and the noise and vibration emitted during operation will be an order of magnitude lower. The advantage is that the motor does not take up much space, which has a positive effect on the dimensions of the washing machine. It serves as an example.
Having studied the internal structure of the equipment, the user will be able to choose a decent option that will last a long time.
2. The principle of operation of the washing machine
The current household appliances of this type carry out the washing process from start to finish. To do this, you need to carry out the following manipulations:
1. Turn on the device in the network.
2. Load laundry into the drum. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the material from which things are made, the washing mode suitable for a particular category of clothing.
3. Pour the powder and other substances into a special section.
4. Set the operating mode, close the door tightly and start the cycle.
Many users are interested in the question of how the automatic washing machine and its engine work. This is a simple procedure that consists of several main steps.
Start washing
For a certain type of fabric, the machine offers its own mode. You should choose underwear by color so that the clothes do not shed and retain their shade.
It all starts with loading things into the drum. In this case, the volume of the tank should be taken into account. For example, holds up to 6 kg. After that, the required amount of the substance is poured into the powder compartment. The desired washing mode is set. On modern machines, the machine can be set to turn on the timer if it is not possible to start the process immediately.
The devices operate in the following modes:
- delicate;
- washing woolen, cotton, synthetic items;
- manual;
- intensive;
- fast and daily.
After being selected desired function close the door tightly and press the start button. At this point, a fixation occurs, due to which the hatch cannot open during the operation of the washing machine.
The machine is loaded in two ways: frontal, when the door is located on the front side of the body (as in the machine), or vertical (as in the case of a washing machine).
After turning on and starting the operation of the machine, the pump comes into operation, which is responsible for supplying water. It enters the drum through small round holes, reaches the desired level. The pressure switch is responsible for this.
When the water has reached the desired level, information is sent to the control panel using a sensor, and the liquid supply stops.
After that, washing starts. It is characterized as follows:
- The flow of water washes the powder out of the cell, it enters the drum.
- The rotational movements ensure that the loaded laundry is completely wet and impregnated with detergents. This contributes to high-quality cleansing from stains and other contaminants.
- During the cycle, water leakage is possible. Washing time depends on the selected program.
It is with the help of the motor that the revolutions of the drum are carried out. For models, as for other washing machines, this process is identical.
Almost every one of us has a washing machine at home, but not everyone knows the details of its device, and this can really interest a true repairman. Go, you have a need to repair your washing machine and you have the opportunity to get acquainted with the device. No matter what brand your washing machine is, its device will be almost identical. It is desirable for every owner to understand the design. This will allow not only to understand the principle of operation of the equipment, but also to determine the cause of the breakdown.
It will probably not be a mistake if we say that every person on earth knows about the washing machine. Everyone uses them, but not everyone knows about the principle of their work. The structure of the washing machine is a very important detail, because it is the knowledge of how it works that will help solve many problems.
The whole process of work begins with the fact that dirty laundry, powder are loaded into the machine and we select the program for washing, after which the start button of the machine is pressed. After that, the module circuit works on command and receives a signal that it needs to start working. The algorithm of actions is very simple. All commands are sent in the right direction, they concern the entire pump, drain, all components and, of course, the engine work on them.
The washing process has been incorporated into the module from the moment the equipment was assembled, so it is carried out according to a specific pattern that the owner chooses.
First of all, the hatch is blocked, it is built into it, it was created for the electronic unit, its command is to protect the insides of the drum into which the laundry is loaded, after which the water supply valve opens. This process involves feeding water into the powder receptacle to flush it into a water tank. Your washing machine has some kind of water level control sensor, as soon as the water reaches the required point, the valve automatically closes. Everything is ready for washing. The system gives a signal that you can start to rotate the mechanism. What is going on inside?
IN this moment the drum rotates, turns the laundry over and splashes water with the help of special protrusions. The linen is subjected to mechanical impact, which is created in the process of hand washing, only everything happens faster and more efficiently. Washing with such a machine is a pleasure, because you do not have to heat water separately, everything is already done for you. A tubular electric heater, or heating element, which is located at the bottom of the tank, heats the water in the washing machine to the required temperature, according to a given program. After the machine has made the required number of revolutions, the water will drain through the drain hose located at the back, the wash will be completed, and you will be able to get clean clothes.
The device of the washing machine Indesit and Samsung
Almost every modern person among a large number of equipment has a washing machine. Modern people so accustomed to this good of society that it is even impossible to imagine how people used to cope without this miracle of technology. However, the responsible owner must know what exactly is included in the device of these models or another brand, for example, Veko or Atlant.
Knowing about the design features of your washing machine can help you in the future not only determine the type of breakdown, but also start self-repair without going to specialized points. In order to get acquainted with the features of the design from the inside, you can view the photo. If your technique is with vertical loading, and you don’t know how to disassemble it, a special video will help.
Washing machines of the brand Indesit and Samsung are complex mechanisms that have been improved by many scientists and specialists. You should start with the fact that absolutely any technique consists of a body, namely the front and rear walls, cover, bottom and front panel. In addition, the washing machine includes many complex systems and nodes, sensors that are responsible for doing the right job, sensors that monitor the level of vibration and other necessary functions.
The most important part in such machines as Indesit and Samsung is the electronic unit.
It consists of a board, a module, a programmer. These are the main parts that perform all the actions performed inside the device. This unit is installed behind the control panel. It is this detail that controls a large number of functions, monitors the correct operation of the pumps, drum, washing and spinning.
We consider the device of the LG direct drive washing machine
LG direct drive washing machines are considered the best in the modern world of technology. However, not everyone understands what is its difference from the rest of modern technology, and how important it is.
The main element of each design of washing machines is the drive.
If earlier work was carried out using a belt, then in modern washing machines brand LG, there is a technology that completely eliminates bringing the drum into active state belt. The entire structure transmits forces to the rotor through air gaps. The motor itself is connected to the drum, this avoids links and wear of the elements that move. To prove the reliability of its work, LG gives a guarantee on the operation of its washing machines for up to 10 years.
What is the device of the Bosch washing machine
Many people wonder why you need to know the washing device? The answer is more than obvious - to repair it if necessary. Studying the device washing machine Bosch brand, we can learn, not only disassemble it, but also learn about its weaknesses. And if you gain enough experience, you can repair absolutely any node that is out of order.
In order not to complicate the concept of the device of your home assistant, you can limit yourself to 4 main groups that combine all the mechanisms.
Namely:
- Control panel details;
- Hull details;
- Drum, tank and electrics;
- Hydraulic part.
These 4 points include a huge number of different elements that you should be aware of.
The priority task of the responsible owner of the washing machine is to find out what the function of each part is, as well as their location in the body of the Bosch washing machine.
First, let's take a look at the control panel. It includes a number of elements.
For example:
- External housing with powder receiver, landing connector, selector and buttons;
- Overlays with notes in Russian;
- Fasteners and microcircuits;
- Network capacitor;
- Power cord;
- Protective cover for mains capacitor;
- selector mechanism;
- A selector that switches between washing modes.
The body of the Bosch brand washing machine is the simplest, both in terms of composition and disassembly. In order to carry out dismantling, you will not need to use special keys. The creators took care of simplicity.
The most important part of the entire mechanism of this brand is the electrics, the drum and the tank. It is in these parts that breakdowns most often occur, and it is with these elements that you have to go to specialists.
Another main feature of this brand can be considered the location of shock absorbers. They are not standard, rather they can be called friction. This part very rarely breaks, but if this happens suddenly, you can replace it yourself and very quickly.
How the washing machine works (video)
So, having familiarized yourself with the designs of several of the most popular washing machines, you can say with great confidence that you can handle the repair without much work and unnecessary costs for the master. Especially if the manufacturer initially made sure that his brainchild was repairable and everything was removed and changed at once, there will be no problems. What else does a beginner need? Only luck.
Regardless of the brand of automatic washing machine, the design of front-loading models is almost identical to different manufacturers. To understand the device of such equipment should be any of its owners. This will help to understand how the automatic machine works, what could fail with various problems, and whether it will be possible to cope with the breakdown with your own hands.
The main components of the machine include:
- Frame;
- Drum;
- water filling system;
- Pressure switch;
- Electric motor;
- drain system;
- Control block.
Frame
All elements of the washing machine, regardless of the brand - Indesit, LG, Samsung, Ariston, Electrolux, Bosch or another, are located inside its metal case. In the body, a base, a front panel with a hatch, a top cover, side walls, and a back wall are distinguished.
In the upper part of the front wall of the case there is a control panel, and in the left corner there is a container for loading detergent (dispenser). Typically, such a container has 3 cells (two for powder and one for liquid), but there may be more or less depending on the model (from 1 to 5). The powder loaded into the dispenser through one or more nozzles enters the tank under the action of a jet of water.
In the center of the front wall is the hatch of the washing machine. It distinguishes such parts as the rubber cuff of the hatch and the device responsible for blocking the hatch during washing. Inside the cuff is attached to the tank by means of a clamp. Thanks to the locking device, the door cannot be opened during the washing process. Most often, such a device has a thermoelement, so after washing the door remains closed for some time.
Water inlet system
The signal for water intake comes from the control module to the solenoid valve, to which the water inlet hose is connected. This hose must be connected to the water supply.
Tank and drum
The tank is considered the main and most voluminous element of the automatic machine. It can hold 35-60 liters of water. So that the machine does not vibrate excessively during washing, the tank is not rigidly connected to the body. To support it, there are two or four springs in the upper part of the machine, and two or four shock absorbers in the lower part. In addition, to eliminate imbalance and strong vibration of the tank during washing, concrete counterweights are fixed on it. Thanks to this design, the body during operation of the equipment, despite the fluctuations of the tank, remains motionless.
Inside the tank there is a drum connected by a belt drive or direct drive to the engine. Laundry is loaded into the drum, and after the washing program is turned on, water with detergent begins to flow into it through many holes. At the front, the tank is connected to the drum by a rubber cuff, which ensures tightness, and at the rear, the drum shaft passes through the tank to the bearing assembly.
For the manufacture of the drum, stainless steel is usually used, and the tank can be either steel or plastic. The second option is cheaper, but is more fragile and has a shorter service life. Often the tank has two halves, which are connected with bolts or with a clamp, but in many machines there are non-separable tanks.
Drainage system
The main elements of the drain system of the automatic machine are a drain pump and a plastic drain corrugated hose 1-4 meters long. One part of the hose is attached to the pump with a clamp, and the second is led into the sewer system.
Draining should normally be performed several times during the wash. In the pump device, a motor, an impeller and a “snail” are distinguished, to which hoses are connected. The pump is most often synchronous. The pump is controlled by an electronic module.
Since the most common malfunction of the drain system is the failure of the pump due to its blockage, the device of the machine provides for the possibility of easy access to the pump for regular cleaning. It is recommended to check and clean the pump filter at least once every 6 months.
Control block
This node of the washing machine commands all other elements, so it can be safely called the "brain" of the device. It is also called a programmer, electronic board or control module. It is from such a block that commands are given that are carried out by the bay system, heating element, drum, drain pump and other parts.
The control unit is the most complex and expensive part of the washing machine. In his device, a digital indicator is isolated, thanks to which the user knows everything about the operation of the device. In most models, in the event of a malfunction, such an indicator starts showing an error code. Having learned its decoding, you can determine what the essence of the breakdown is and whether it can be dealt with without calling the wizard. If the module itself is out of order, you should contact a specialist to repair or replace it.
Sensors
The operation of the control module is based on the control of various sensors that send information to it about all the processes in the machine during washing.
These sensors are:
- Pressure switch. This is the name of the sensor, the function of which is to monitor the water level. Another name for it is the level relay. It can be electronic or mechanical, and the principle of its operation is pneumatic. As soon as the pressure switch sends a signal to the control module that there is enough water in the tank, the machine will continue to work.
- Air chamber. Such a plastic part is located next to the drain pipe and is important for the operation of the pressure switch. When the tank fills with water, the air pressure in this chamber increases proportionally with the water pressure. Through a small fitting, pressure is transmitted to the pressure switch.
- Thermostat. This sensor is located at the bottom of the tank. The main function of this sensor is to determine the temperature of the water in the tank and transmit data to the control module.
- Tachometer. Its main job is to control the engine speed, which is important for different washing modes and the spinning process.
Heater
Located inside the washing TEN machines responsible for heating the water during the washing process. The power of the heater most often ranges from 1800 to 2200 watts. It is located at the bottom of the tank and is considered one of the most vulnerable elements of such equipment. Its breakdown is one of the most common and most often occurs due to the accumulation of scale on the surface of the heater.
Today, probably, there are no longer those who do not have a washing machine at home, but few people know the design of the washing machine. And when it breaks, we don't know exactly what the problem is. In this article, we will consider the device of an automatic washing machine, so that in which case you can independently identify breakdowns and repair the device.
If you still do not know how the automatic washing machine works, then in this article we will talk in detail about each of its elements. Conventionally, all elements of a washing machine can be divided into several main groups, which include various elements designs:
- electronics group and machine control module;
- executing elements of the device;
- drum compartment of the washing machine;
- body and other elements.
Below we will consider each of these groups separately. In the event of a breakdown, contact the HelpMasterService workshop. Repair of any complexity of all brands of washing machines.
Electronics group and machine control module
Consider the most important module in the washing machine, which is responsible for the performance of your device, namely the control module. This board is fully responsible for all systems of the device, and gives commands to all other design elements to perform any operations.
It contains a list of all available programs, and other program codes for the system. If this block control fails, its replacement will cost you a large amount.
However, the control board cannot function without some individual elements, which perform certain tasks, namely the following devices:
- Sensor for determining the filling level of the tank (pressure switch)- as the name implies, this element is responsible for transmitting data on filling the tank with water. This device works in combination with an air chamber, which supplies pressure to the sensor, depending on how full the tank is.
- Thermostat or temperature sensor- it is mounted at the bottom of the washing machine and is designed to determine the temperature of the water that enters the main compartment.
- Tacho sensor - designed to control engine speed. It is through him command block regulates the number of revolutions of the drum at various programs washing.
- Other electronics - this item includes the front panel, with a display on which you select programs. This also includes relays with wires connecting all the structural elements of the washing machine.
The control unit sends all commands to these elements, which actuate the entire mechanism:
- door lock - before the washing process starts, the system gives a signal to the door, and it is blocked until the set washing program is completed.
- Water supply valve - also known as a solenoid valve, also controlled by the command unit, and on signals, it unlocks and lets water into the drum compartment, and also closes when the signal stops.
- Engine - the most basic element, without which the functioning of the washing machine is impossible. It drives the drum in which the laundry is located. In washing machines, it transmits torque in different ways - through a belt drive, or directly, setting the drum pulley in motion. The number of revolutions and the direction of rotation are controlled by tachometer, which transmits information to the command module.
- TEN (heating element) - heats water to the set temperature, which is transmitted to this element through the command block. The tubular heating element (TEN) in contact with water becomes covered with scale, after which it heats the water poorly, and may even fail.
- Drain pump - designed to drain already used water into the sewer system.
Washing machine drum compartment
The largest element, which takes up the most space in the washing unit, is all due to the fact that it must contain water for washing and several kilograms of laundry. The tank itself is made of plastic, and is a relatively sealed container, inside of which there is a movable drum along with a heating element.
Due to the fact that the tank is quite heavy even without laundry, it is equipped with shock absorbers and special spring fasteners that firmly fix it in an inactive state and allow it to perform work operations during washing.
The ram itself is a structure made in the form of a cylinder, with holes inside in the form of a grid throughout the cavity of the drum. Made from stainless steel.
Body and other elements
All the main elements have already been described above, it remains to describe only small elements:
- Powder box - this compartment is a tray or hopper to which various pipes and other elements for water supply are connected.
- Counterweight plate - due to the fact that during the spinning of the laundry, the drum rotates at high speed, this entails that the machine is actively moving. It is for this that the weight plate is mounted, which does not allow the machine to move.
That's actually the whole device of the washing machine, now you know the design of the unit, otherwise what elements are in it and what they are responsible for and what functions they perform.
South Korean LG washing appliances are very popular due to their reliability and functionality. It has complex technical components and simple parts that you can replace yourself. It is not necessary to immediately run to the service center after detecting malfunctions. After all, saving where you can not spend is always useful, right?
Those who want to repair the LG washing machine with their own hands will learn from us all about common types of breakdowns and methods of dealing with violations in the operation of the washing machine. With our help, independent repairmen will solve any technical problem without problems and difficulties.
In the article brought to your attention, the types of problems that occur during the operation of LG machines are thoroughly analyzed. Options for their elimination are described, taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations and design features. Visual video and photo applications will assist in the development of a difficult topic.
What does a washing machine do? In fact, she pours water into the body, heats it up and spins the drum filled with dirty laundry. This happens in a certain way, which ultimately leads to the cleaning of linen from contamination.
Now a little more. As soon as the washing program is started, the first thing to do is open the water inlet valve. Water flows through the dispenser into the tank.
Typical malfunctions for LG washing machines that most often occur during operation are listed in the instructions for the unit.
Important machine parts to know:
- dispenser- drawer for detergents.
- Tank- a plastic container in which there is a drum and a heating element (heater). Water is poured into it.
- Pressure switch- He's a pressure switch. Monitors the water level in washing machines.
- heating element- tubular electric heater. Heats water.
The pressure switch gives the go-ahead to stop the water supply as soon as the required volume is reached. Then the heater turns on. There is always a water temperature sensor next to the heating element ( thermostat). As soon as he reports that the water has heated up to exactly the right temperature, a motor comes into play that rotates the drum.
Towards the end of the wash begins to work water pump- this is most often called a water drain pump. It ends the “production cycle” of the washing machine and begins with the analysis of typical malfunctions of LG brand machines.
Schematic diagram of a horizontal loading washing machine. To start the repair, you need to get acquainted with all the details of their purpose.
Common types of breakdowns
Washing machine components are electromechanical devices that move under the influence of current. They operate under load, exposed to tap water and temperature fluctuations.
Here is a list of what might break:
- door electric lock;
- filling valve;
- pressure switch;
- temperature sensor;
- electric motor;
- speed sensor (“Hall sensor”);
- drum bearings;
- water pump;
- electrical (wire connections);
- seals and hoses.
If the machine has the functions of drying and steaming, then a few more items are added: a steam generator, an air heater, a fan, an air temperature sensor.
The modern generation of washing machines is equipped with a direct drive. The engine in such systems fails much less frequently than other components.
But the most popular reasons for applying to service centers- this is a failure of the pump, heating element, filling valve, pressure switch, electrics and bearings.
In general, they are very reliable and, in comparison with other brands common in Russia, they break much less often.
Diagnostics and repair of the main components of the machine
Washing machines are fundamentally different from each other. The descriptions given here will help you navigate their device (even if your car is not LG).
The first stage of repair work is diagnostics. You should not start replacing parts without fully verifying the cause of the breakdown. The failure of one or another element is signaled by special signs. New generation machines have a system that helps determine the location and cause of the failure.
To assemble / disassemble the body, dismantle the washing machine, you need to prepare in advance a tool that is easy to use. If there are suspicions of problems in the electrical part, it is advisable to stock up on a multimeter
For most operations, a Phillips screwdriver will suffice. Pliers and wire cutters will help in some ways, but somewhere you will have to use keys and heads for 10 and 14. For more complex repairs (for example, replacing bearings), more tricky devices will be needed.
A building level will help a lot. After repair, you will need to make sure that the machine is level, and if necessary, adjust the legs
Most of the components and individual devices of the washing machine are not repaired. For example, when the heating element burns out, it needs to be changed entirely. To find a suitable model for sale, find out the model number of your machine (“ Model No.”) and her serial number (“S/No" or " serial no”). They are written on a sticker or plate. Look for it on the body: under the drum door, behind, on the side.
Before installing a new part, make sure to turn off the plug again. Many nodes operate on deadly 220 volts.
Replacing the drain pump according to the rules
The washing machine does not drain the water, the display shows an error code "OE". It's simple - it's a pump, and it's not necessarily broken.
Usually, during draining, a characteristic sound is clearly audible - the pump impeller rotates. You can see it in action without even disassembling the car. To do this, you need to open a large round plug - it is located in the lower right corner, under the hatch or plastic panel on the latches. Be careful: water will pour!
The pump plug is one piece with the filter. The task of the filter is to prevent debris from entering the impeller. It is recommended to clean it after two or three washing sessions, and in old machines every time after the completion of the work process
Even if the impeller is not spinning, it could simply become clogged. First thing . Near the large round plug you can find a thin tube closed with a small plug. Substituting a large flat container, carefully pull out the tube and open it. And be patient.
Another way to drain water is to lower the drain hose to floor level. Most likely, it is fixed with clips on the back wall. When the tank is empty, you can safely open the pump plug and get everything extraneous that you find there.
It is possible that all the problems were associated only with clogging of the drain system. It will need to be trite to clean it, which will help a detailed video instruction:
If the pump is still broken, you will have to disassemble the car a little:
- Remove the plug from the socket.
- Take out the dispenser. You will need to tilt the machine, and there is usually water left in the dispenser that can spill.
- Remove the bottom plastic panel. It is fastened with two self-tapping screws and latches around the perimeter.
- Tilt the machine or lay it on its left side (the pump is usually on the right).
Now you can test the pump with a multimeter and remove it. Even if the electrical circuit is working, the pump could wear out mechanically. In such cases, the machine does not always agree to drain the water, and the impeller may hang on its axis.
The drain system pump requires a careful study of the condition of both the mechanical and electrical parts. True, practice proves that the vast majority of breakdowns are associated with clogging of the device.
So, you have diagnosed a pump malfunction or are not sure that it is working. You can take the device to a home appliance service to make sure it is working properly.
If you are sure that it is faulty, change it, for this:
- Remove the dispenser - there may be water left in it.
- Remove the bottom plastic panel: unscrew the two screws and carefully pry the edges, starting from the top. It is better to do this with a chisel than a screwdriver - there will be less damage.
- Lay the car on its left side.
The pump is connected to the wires and hoses. The wiring terminals are pulled out by hand (do not forget to mark and photograph them). To remove the hoses, you need to unclench the clamps with your fingers or pliers. When everything is off, unscrew the three screws around the filter plug.
Pump without filter - straight and side view. Most often, there is no need to buy a pump assembly with a filter, since the filter does not need to be replaced
You may not find exactly the same part for sale. But there are very few varieties of drain pumps, and almost every one fits dozens. different models washing machines. It may be easiest to contact the nearest service for a new spare part.
Before installing a new pump, clean out dirt and deposits. They can greatly affect the life of the impeller.
It will be more convenient to first fasten the pump with self-tapping screws, then connect the hoses and wires. Don't forget to close the stopper. Reinstall the machine and run "idle" some of the shortest cycles, for example, "Rinse and spin". After making sure that everything works, you can finally assemble the car.
After replacing the drain pump, do not immediately assemble the case. First you need to check how it works again installed device. You can verify that it works by running one of the short programs
Installing a new water heater
Error code - "HE". Another sign is that the door glass is cold, while the water should be 40°C according to the program.
To verify that it is faulty, you need to remove back cover You will need a Phillips screwdriver for this. First remove the plug from the socket, then unscrew the four screws and pull the cover up a little.
The heating element is located at the very bottom of the tank, three wires fit it. The middle one is grounding, and the extreme ones are power, 220 volts. Disconnect these terminals and test the heater with a multimeter.
Measure the resistance at the power terminals - it should be within 200 ohms, but above zero. If the device shows a unit, then the spiral is burned out
Disconnect the wires. To remove the heating element, you need to unscrew the nut in the middle and “drown” the stud. Using a screwdriver, pull out the heater as far as it will go.
Now remove the rubber seal by prying its edges with a flat screwdriver. Do not touch the edges of the hole with it! The slightest notches will break the tightness.
After unscrewing the nut and removing the seal, the heating element should come out unhindered. Take care of the plastic visor over the heating element - it breaks easily
A new heating element is sold assembled with a seal. When buying it, you will surely pay attention to the absence of an internal side with an elastic band: do not be embarrassed by this. It formed over time, as the seal was sandwiched between the heater and the inner plate.
Your heater may have a built-in temperature sensor. If it is correct, then it is not necessary to change it. There is a bracket inside the tank - the heater must fall into it. Having inserted it all the way, turn the drum by hand. If a scraping sound is heard, the heating element has passed above the bracket.
There is also a danger of missing lower, and then the tank will suffer from high temperatures. Now tighten the nut, but without much effort. Pour water into the tank. You can directly through the drum, for example, from the shower. Check that the seal is not leaking, tighten the nut slightly if necessary.
A professional guide to replacing the heating element is presented in the video:
Fill Valve Repair Options
Problems with the inlet valve can manifest themselves in different ways.
If there is little water entering the machine, the inlet filter may be clogged. To clean it, disconnect the inlet hose, remove the mesh and clean it mechanically, for example, by rinsing under running water or with a toothpick
Problem #1 Water is collected slowly, the powder in the dispenser is not completely washed off. Maybe the weak water pressure is to blame. If not, then the filter is clogged.
- Turn off the water supply to the washing machine.
- Unscrew the inlet hose directly at the machine inlet.
- Remove the filter with pliers.
Most likely, the plastic mesh is clogged. It can be cleaned with a toothpick under running water.
Problem #2 Water is not collected. An error code may be displayed "IE".
First check the filter as described in the previous paragraph. If cleaning does not help, you need to get to the valve and check it with a multimeter. To do this, remove the plug from the socket and remove the top cover - it is fastened with two self-tapping screws at the back. After unscrewing them, slide the cover back a little, and then it will be removed without effort.
The inlet valve, as you might guess, is located immediately in the place where the inlet hose was screwed on. Valves can be from one to five, but most often there are two
Check again that the power cord is not plugged in. Now disconnect the terminals from the valves. Check the resistance with a multimeter: it should be in the range of 2.5 - 4 kOhm.
Problem #3 The machine does not wash, but water gurgles inside. It is pointless to check the electrical part of the valves - this is mechanical wear. The valve is not a very expensive part, it is usually not repaired. Just in case, mark the wires and take a picture of how it was. Replacement order:
- Remove the plug from the outlet (most often 220 volts are supplied to the valves).
- Shut off the water.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws at the back and sliding it back a little.
- Disconnect the wires and hoses from the valves.
The valve is fixed with self-tapping screws or special latches. In the second case, it must be turned while pressing on the plastic bulges from the outside. With the installation of a new part of the difficulties should not be.
Do-it-yourself pressure switch replacement
When the pressure switch fails, the machine takes on too much water. It happens that water is constantly collected and drained at the same time. Sometimes a breakdown of this sensor manifests itself in poorly wrung out laundry. The display may show an error code "PE".
The pressure switch is located under the cover itself, usually on the right in the corner. A thin hose and electrical wires are connected to it.
Removing this sensor is easy. Remove the plug from the socket, remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws on the back and sliding it back a little.
It is fastened with one screw. First disconnect the terminal, then remove the sensor, and at the end disconnect the hose from it. To check the pressure switch, you need to blow into it. In a working pressure switch, you will hear a click. Install the new pressure switch in reverse order.
The hardest part is diagnosing wiring problems. The electrician of the washing machine is responsible for the operation of all systems, and contact violations lead to a variety of consequences.
If you're not sure what's wrong, check the electrical. Remove the plug from the socket, open the rear and top covers. You can remove the lower plastic panel if there are problems with draining.
Systematically inspect all wires and their connections:
- Terminals must be clean and shiny.
- The color of the wire insulation should be bright and uniform.
- Water must not get on the wires and contacts.
When inspecting the inside of the washer, you may find wiring problems.
It can be:
- oxidized contacts (white or green rough coating);
- darkened or whitened insulation;
- partially destroyed, cracked or burnt insulation;
- wet contacts.
If contacts are exposed to water, they must be wiped off or dried. Be sure to fix leaks. Oxidized terminals are not enough to clean. Perhaps moisture constantly gets on them, so you have to find and eliminate the cause.
Darkening on the wires is a sign of overheating. The reason is again a bad connection. The insulation must be intact, as well as the clamps that secure the wires
Oxidized contacts should be replaced. If possible, find the opposite end of this wire and replace it entirely. For such repairs, you will have to make friends with a 60-watt soldering iron. As a temporary measure, you can clean the contact, but after a couple of weeks, inspect again.
If the insulation is broken, the wire definitely needs to be replaced. Darkened insulation is also a sign of poor contact and, as a result, overheating of the wire. Sooner or later the insulation will melt, it can happen short circuit and fire.
Instructions for replacing bearings
This is perhaps the biggest hard worker in the washing machine. They bear the entire load of the rotating wet laundry and the weight of the drum. A damaged bearing is immediately audible: an unpleasant hum appears, especially loud during spinning.
The bearings are protected from water by an oil seal, which can also wear out. In this case, water will seep to the bearings, and then they will face a slow but certain death. The buzz is a pretty reliable indicator. As soon as it appeared, do repairs without delay. Delay can lead to more costly consequences.
The two bearings are the only thing that keeps the drum horizontal. With severe wear of the bearings, the wear of the tank and the cross (bracket) begins
The most complex of the operations described here is. But by ignoring the buzz, you run the risk of making things even more complicated.
Due to damaged bearings, the drum rotates with an effort. Bearings begin to break the tank and the power element of the drum - the cross. There is a possibility that the bearings have begun to rust due to the wear of the oil seal. In this case, water from the tank will flow to the engine. Imagine the consequences.
Tightening with the replacement of the bearing, you run the risk of completely losing the cross, the tank and even the engine. Repair will cost much more.
To replace the bearings, you need to disassemble almost the entire machine. The point is to remove the tank, disassemble it and get the drum out of it.
To work, in addition to screwdrivers, you will need:
- head for 10;
- key or head for 14;
- pliers;
- wire cutters;
- clamps for wiring (polypropylene ties);
- simple silicone sealant (not glue!).
Gloves and a flashlight will also help a lot.
Remove the plug from the socket. Remove the back wall and disconnect the wires going to the motor and heater. Remove all fasteners that secure the wires to the tank, cut the clamps with wire cutters. The tank itself hangs on two springs and is supported from below by two shock absorbers.
How to remove the dispenser box: press the latch in the middle. In general, it is useful to take it out and wash it sometimes so that mold does not form.
Chances are you have a direct drive car. So you have to take it off. Loosen the central screw while holding the drum with your hand.
Be careful not to cut yourself on the edge of the case. Remove the rotor (moving part of the motor), then unscrew and remove the stator (respectively, the fixed part).
In washing machines with a belt drive, you must first remove the belt: pull it towards you and turn the pulley (wheel). The belt will come off easily. The pulley also needs to be unscrewed
Around the hatch into which the laundry is loaded, there is a large elastic cuff. It is wrapped around with a spring clamp. Find this spring and, having picked it up with a screwdriver, remove the clamp.
After removing the clamp, proceed as follows:
- Now you can remove the front panel. It is held in by self-tapping screws at the top and bottom edges. Pull the panel up a little. Disconnect the wires going to the lock.
- Remove the fittings from below (water may remain inside!) and a thin hose going up to the pressure switch.
- Remove the jumper that supported the front edge of the top cover.
- Remove the dispenser and filling valve.
- With a 10 head, unscrew the counterweights - one on top and two in front.
It remains to disconnect the shock absorbers. They are attached with plastic pins; press the spring latches on the pointed ends of the pins and remove them (possible with pliers).
Make sure you unplug everything. Now you can lift the tank and unhook the springs. Carefully pull the tank forward. Do not forget that a water level control tube is screwed to the bottom, which can be accidentally broken. For peace of mind, you can remove it.
The drum is simply removed from the rear half of the tank without much difficulty. Next, we need only the rear half (forecastle). When working with it, remember about the heating element - do not bend or break it.
The puller of internal bearings will greatly facilitate the task. If you do not have such a tool, knock them out with a hammer and punch. As a punch, any rod of a suitable length is suitable
In the center of the forecastle, on the inside, you will see an oil seal. It also needs to be replaced. It will not be difficult to pull it out using something as a lever (for example, a flat screwdriver). Put the forecastle with the outer side up and insert the punch through the outer bearing - first we knock out the inner one.
Be careful! If the bearing is warped, it can damage the forecastle. The blows don't have to be hard. Alternate the points of impact in a criss-cross pattern: first hit the left edge, then the right, then the top, then the bottom, and so on in the same order. Make sure that the bearing comes out evenly, without distortion.
Be careful when driving the bearing. Hit only on the outer clip. Instead of a punch, it is better to use a pipe of the appropriate diameter
The outer bearing is knocked out according to the same principle, only the forecastle needs to be turned over and supported so that the bearing “hangs” above the table.
Installing new bearings and seals requires even more care. You can only hit the outer ring of the bearing. Using a punch, constantly check if the bearing is warped.
An exhaustive instruction on replacing bearings with all the nuances will be presented by the video:
Installing a new oil seal should also be done carefully - it is easy to bend it. Don't try to straighten it, better buy another one.
The slightest flaws in the installation of these parts will lead to leakage - water will get on the bearings and then on the engine. Before assembling, try to clean the drum axle. Do not scratch it or sand it.
The drum should fit easily into the bearings. Before assembling the tank, apply silicone sealant to the joint. When connecting the forecastles, make sure that the heating element gets into the bracket intended for it. Do not overtighten the screws - this is not necessary. Thanks to the sealant, the connection will be quite reliable.
If all the actions to replace the bearing were carried out correctly, the tank can easily join the assembly. After installation, the joint must be treated with a sealant
Screw the water level control tube to the tank. Next, you have to assemble the car. There shouldn't be any difficulties. It is more convenient to work in this order:
- Hang the tank on the springs, attach the shock absorbers.
- Connect the pressure switch hose and fasten it to the tank. The “extra” length of the hose should remain at the top.
- Install counterweights.
- Attach the bottom fittings.
- Screw the motor stator, connect the connectors to the stator and the heating element, secure the wires with clamps and brackets.
- Install the dispenser and filling valve, connect the pipes and wires.
- Screw on the top front jumper.
- Install the large front panel after connecting the lock connector.
- Pull the end of the cuff and put it on the side around the hatch. Put a collar on the cuff.
- Install the motor rotor (or pulley). While tightening the center screw, hold the tank from the front with your hand.
- Connect the wires to the top panel and install it.
Check again if everything is connected and fixed.
Before installing the remaining panels, you can run a short “dry” program to check the tightness of all connections. Once the machine is in place, level it.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Replacing spare parts in a washing machine is a responsible matter. To take into account all the nuances and perform the work "excellent", we suggest studying useful information on the nuances of assembling and disassembling the LG machine presented in the video:
So, you have familiarized yourself with the most common malfunctions of LG washing machines. Repairing them with your own hands is not always easy, but it is quite possible. Try! Good luck with your repair!
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