2E3B (two elements three ranges)
Working on the air in the field (competitions, rest, etc.), radio amateurs usually use simple antennas GP, IV, LW, etc. But it is possible that many, like me, set out to apply something more effective, for example a directional antenna. Moreover, it should be easy to transport and not difficult to install ...
I started my search for a suitable option by repeating the "SPIDER BEAM" antenna from DF4SA. An excellent proven design, which is described in sufficient detail for self-production and, in principle, you can buy. However, the assembly and lifting of this "spider" in the field took about 3 hours and 40 minutes. In addition, the four Chinese rods 6 m long, purchased for the manufacture of the antenna supporting structure, and cut to the required five, were clearly not suitable for it. They bent like "snakes" in different places and should have been replaced with stronger, thicker rods or fiberglass tubes. But it somehow did not fit into my plans then, I wanted something "directed" simpler and easier.
Further searches were continued with the help of the computer program "MMANA". The simplest and smallest directional three-band wire antenna of the VK2ABQ design, described a long time ago, did not have an expressive directional pattern in the "simulator" and, accordingly, gain, although it was quite efficient. Also, a simple and decent in all respects MOXON antenna was also quite satisfactory, but for the "lower" 14 MHz band, supporting elements more than four meters long were required. In addition, most of the descriptions of "MOXON" "s that I came across were either single-band or combined with other bands that were not suitable for me. And I needed an antenna operating at 14, 21 and 28 MHz.
And finally, after several hours of work with the program, a wire two-element tri-band antenna was simulated - something between "VK2ABQ" and "MOXON". I named it 2E3B (two elements three ranges) ...
Looking ahead, I will say that multiple tests of the antenna in the field have confirmed its full performance. In comparison with the GP, it gave a gain of 1 ... 3 points on the S-meter at different distances, well "cut out" noises from a nearby city, and stations from W or JA responded to 10 watts almost the first time.
Antenna drawing is shown in Fig. 1. Its design is classic for this type of antennas. It consists of four fiberglass struts ("spider"), supporting in space at the required distances the elements of three wire antennas "wave channel", as well as a cross - a node for attaching the struts to the mast. Antenna active elements are three separate dipoles connected at one common feed point.
Rice. 1. Drawing of the antenna
The dimensions of vibrators and reflectors indicated in the drawing are valid when they are made from wires of an unbraided field telephone cable P-274M, each wire of which contains four copper and three steel wires, enclosed in polyethylene insulation. It is possible to make antenna elements from bare copper wire with a diameter of 1.2 ... 1.5 mm, increasing their length by 3.5%. However, a "vole" is better suited, which is lighter than a copper wire and also stretches less, which is important for maintaining antenna tuning.
There are many variants of the cross, one of them can be seen in the description of the "SPIDER BEAM" antenna. My first version of the cross was made of two duralumin equal angles 30x30 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm and a length of 60 cm.A U-shaped bracket with threads at the ends was installed in the center of each, with which the angle was attached to the mast. The corners were located on the mast one above the other and firmly held the spacers for several trips into the field. But the node also had one drawback. Each time when assembling the antenna, it was required to set the "cross" angle (72 °) according to the template, which, when tightening the U-brackets, constantly tried to "slip away". Subsequently, this unit was finalized, and the corners were securely fixed with M6 screws on a common four-millimeter duralumin plate with dimensions of 70x130 mm. The view of the unit is shown in the photograph in Fig. 2.
Rice. 2. View of the node
Each spacer (rod) is attached to the crosspiece with two worm gear clamps. In the places where the clamps are installed, the spacer is pre-wrapped with a rubber tape cut, for example, from an unusable bicycle tube. And the rubber tape, in turn, is fixed by means of several turns of PVC tape.
To simplify and speed up the assembly of the antenna, it is very important to mark the attachment points of its active elements on the spacers (for example, with paint of different colors). The fastening methods here can be different - clamps, adhesive tape, plastic ties, latches, etc. The main thing is that the chosen method ensures that the wire element cannot be moved along the spacer. I have additionally drilled holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm in these places, through which, when assembling the antenna, pieces of a millimeter enameled copper wire are passed. The ends of this wire are bent upward and twisted with each other, forming small clamps for fastening the antenna elements at the bend points.
In fig. 3 shows the drawings of the vibrator, reflector and power line. The dimensions of the vibrators and reflectors, as well as the position of the marks where the wire elements are bent and attached to the spacers, are shown in table. 1 and tab. 2 respectively. As noted, this, in conjunction with the spacer markings, simplifies and speeds up antenna assembly while maintaining symmetry in the design. It should be noted that in table. 1 shows only half the length of the dipole. The second half is the same.
Rice. 3. Drawings of the vibrator, reflector and power line
Table 1
|
MHz |
A, m |
B, m |
Cm |
table 2
|
A, (m |
B, D, m |
Cm |
|
Loops are formed at the ends of the elements, secured with wire ties. During assembly, a fishing line is passed through the loops, which pulls the ends of the elements together. Bandages and marks on the wires of the elements are made by dense winding of four turns of copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm.
On one side of the vibrators, instead of loops, ring terminal lugs for M4 screws are soldered. With the help of handpieces, vibrators of the same range are attached to the insulators, forming full-fledged dipoles (vibrators of the 28 MHz range are attached to the "balun" board).
The power lines are also made with a P-274M wire and are held parallel to each other in close proximity by segments of a heat-shrinkable tube. At the same time, the VSWR deterioration across the ranges is not observed. The main thing is not to allow twisting of the lines, otherwise the operation of the antenna will be disrupted. Ring terminals for M4 screws are also soldered to the ends of the wires of the lines, and M4 screws with nuts are installed on the insulator board for fastening the halves of the vibrators and power lines.
The length of the wire for the vibrators is taken 10 ... 15 cm more, forming taps for tuning the antenna. By shortening their length, you can more accurately find the minimum SWR in the desired section of the range. The antenna turned out to be not too narrowband as expected. Therefore, the effect of adjusting their length is not very pronounced. But since it is easier to bite the conductor than to build it up, it was decided to leave them. As a result, from the initial length of 10 ... 15 cm on my antenna there were segments 4 ... 5 cm long.If there is no desire or opportunity to tune the antenna, I recommend immediately shortening them in length to 5 cm.I think that SWR in this case will not exceed 2 on any of the ranges.
Soldering ring lugs to the P-274M wire usually does not cause problems if the wire is not old (not darkened). Soldering should be done quickly, with enough flux, as the insulation melts quickly. Multi-colored heat-shrinkable tubes will not be superfluous here. This will help not to confuse the elements of the same ranges and power lines when assembling the antenna (their lengths are slightly different) and will save time.
Insulators with dimensions 20x40 mm and a "balun" board with dimensions 50x90 mm are made of fiberglass with a thickness of 1.5 mm. Their sketches are shown in Fig. 4. To remove static charges on the "balun" board, an MLT-2 100 kOhm resistor is installed in parallel to the power terminals. The balun and the power cable are attached to the board with plastic ties. The balun is wound classically - 5 + 5 turns with RG-58 C / U cable on opposite sides of the Amidon FT-140-61 ferrite ring magnetic wire. You can probably use a domestic magnetic core with a permeability of 200 ... 600 of the corresponding standard size.
Rice. 4. Sketches of insulators and the "balun" board
At one of the windings, a piece of cable about 1.2 m long is left as an output, to which the SO-239 connector is soldered. It is mechanically attached to the top of the mast so that "sliding" is impossible. The connector is used to connect to a thicker cable (for example, RG-213) going down to the transceiver. The use of a thin cable from the "balun" to the mast is caused by the desire to reduce the mass and, accordingly, the sagging of the vibrators in the center. On the other hand, the loss in a thin cable reaches 1 dB at a frequency of 28 MHz already at a length of about 10 m, and using it as the full length of a feeder to a transceiver is fraught with losses. It is of course possible to use an additional spacer about 1.2 m long from the mast to the balun board. Then a thicker cable can be led directly to the "balun", where it is advisable, in this case, to install an RF connector.
Antenna assembly is best done on a short vertical mast (1.5 ... 2 m), securely fixed to the base. It is very convenient if this is the first "knee" of the retractable mast. Having installed the spacers, fix the reflector and vibrator of the 28 MHz range, then the 21 MHz range and the last - 14 MHz. Connecting the ends of the vibrators to the insulators (vibrator 28 MHz - to the "balun"), connect the supply lines. After that, slightly pull up (best of all at the same time, on both sides) and tie the ends of the single-band elements with fishing line. In this operation, the main thing is not to overdo it - not to bend the rods and not leave the antenna elements hanging down. By the way, as practice has shown, when disassembling the antenna, it is better to untie the same pieces of fishing line only on one side, which will simplify the subsequent assembly (or make these connections based on mini-carbines). So that the ends of the rods do not sag, they can be pulled with a fishing line or cord to the mast pipe protruding upwards by 0.5 ... 1 m.
It takes less than two hours to assemble and install the antenna. For spacers, four rods 5 ... 6 m long made of fiberglass (or fiberglass pipes) are suitable, cut to a length of 3.7 m. 3 kg, so it can be easily lifted alone on a lightweight retractable mast. To rotate the antenna, if necessary, you can use an inexpensive rotary device for TV antennas. As practice has shown, the antenna works quite well, clearly showing its directionality, already at a height of about eight meters, therefore its parameters are in Table. 3, taken from the "MMANA" software, are given for this installation height above the "average" ground with respect to conductivity. It is clear that the higher the better, but a large and heavy mast is hardly suitable for field conditions.
Frequency band at VSWR = 2, kHz
First, a little history.
The creation of this antenna was just “brewing” in the 90s of the last century. So I came across articles that suggested the idea of creating such an antenna. One of them is the article by Dick Bird (G4ZU) - "JUNGLE JOB, or New Technical Principles for the Design of Compact Beams." ...
Another publication resembling a Spider antenna was an article by the Sverdlovsk radio amateur UA9CR, published in the Radio amateur bulletin No. 6/14 dated March 15, 1990, published by the Petrozavodsk club "Kivach". ...
Isn't it - isn't it, the shape of the 3-element YAGI is similar to that of the Spider antenna. But all this is around, and about. Now two elements, then one range.
I suppose that with the rapid development of computer technology and the development of antenna modeling programs, “they have there, in the west” - DF4SA was calculated and implemented in “hardware”, as well as popularized - a really working multi-band antenna, which he called SPIDER BEAM. And after the publication of the description of this antenna in the Radio magazine and with the development of the Internet in Russia, the Spider antenna gained popularity, due to its simplicity, cheapness and good repeatability in our country.
Practical work.
After a long period (since 2003) studying the documentation for the Spider antenna, reading various articles related to this antenna and purchasing the necessary components, in 2007 I had the time and opportunity to start building the SPIDER BEAM.
I took the UA0SGY design as a basis, naturally with changes taking into account my means and capabilities, as well as my design vision of some antenna nodes. So, I did not drill the pipes of the crosspiece as in the UA0SGY, but fixed them to the stand by means of a duralumin plate and U-shaped pins. I fixed a textolite plate on the rack for attaching the central part of the vibrators, this unit is similar to the UA0SGY design, with the only difference that the CP-50 connector was installed to connect the feeder.
The base of the cross is a duralumin tube that can be loosely put on the upper section of the mast. The latter was a telescopic mast - FOR 4.115.002. ...
For the manufacture of antenna poles, seven-meter Chinese fishing rods were purchased, which, in fact, turned out to be not seven meters high. The lengths of the four purchased rods ranged from 6400 to 6800. However, the last two sections of the rod had to be removed due to their weak design. And to build up the missing length due to the pipes of the cross.
When assembling the poles, it turned out that the joints of the sections must be strengthened, otherwise the poles will spontaneously fold from vibration in the wind. I wrapped the joints of the sections with PVC insulating tape and squeezed them from above with an automobile clamp.
All elements of the antenna were made from a field worker according to the dimensions published in the author's documentation. He stretched the antenna elements with a nylon cord 2 mm in diameter, and stretched the poles with a nylon cord 4 mm in diameter. Fastening of elements, guy wires to the poles is made as in UA0SGY, by means of car clamps and loops made of steel wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm.
The antenna assembled on the ground, as already mentioned above, is raised to the working height by a telescopic mast. The role of the upper tier of the mast guys was performed by INVTRTED VEE for 40/80 meters range. ... The middle part of the mast was stretched with a nylon cord 4 mm in diameter, and the lower section of the mast was fixed with standard guy wires.
After raising the antenna to the working height (about 10 m), the SWR was measured by the ranges and the directional diagram was taken. Despite the fact that the resonances of the antenna were in the upper parts of the ranges, its wide bandwidth fully met my requirements. Practical work on the air confirmed her good work.
The antenna stood for four months and in October, after another storm, it collapsed, while one pole (fishing rod) was broken.
This "accident" does not in any way relate to the antenna design. The weak point was the top section of the mast. The antenna rotated in azimuth - by means of a rope, which untied, and the result is visible in the attached photos.
After repairing the pole, the antenna was assembled again, and since the season of autumn-winter storms began, I did not dare to install it on the mast, lifting it with improvised means to a height of about 3-4 meters. Oddly enough, with such an antenna height for the Icom 706mk2g transceiver, I freely conducted communications with the European part of the mainland. In this form, the antenna worked for almost a month.
Even during the assembly process, I pulled one of the clamps, until the pole cracked. In the hope of "maybe" then I did not change the section. Another storm found a weak point. The "solid" pole broke in the place I expected.
Since there was no time and material for the next repair, I took the ends of the antenna elements together into one knot and stuck them into the snow with a peg. Thus, the base and one half of the antenna elements were at a height of about 2 meters, and the other half of the antenna elements smoothly descended to the ground.
In this form, the antenna stood until the spring of next year, and communications were carried out on it with the European part of the mainland. True, in terms of efficiency, it corresponded to or slightly exceeded in the direction of the main radiation lobe - INVTRTED VEE on a 40/80 meter range standing nearby.
At the beginning of summer, I had the time and materials to restore the antenna again, which was done.
The restored antenna took its place again on the repaired and reinforced mast, all summer long, delighting me with its work.
The strongest hurricane "Gustav" that took place in early September reached us. The pole, for which the antenna was turned, broke off.
And when I lowered the antenna, the phone rang at the assistant (not a radio amateur), he threw the guy wires and the antenna crashed in the place with the mast. Turned into a pile of sticks.
The Spider antenna made of Chinese fishing rods broke due to:
1. In the first and last case of breakage, the rope was incorrectly tied, for which the antenna was rotating. As a result, in the first case, the upper section of the mast broke off, which led to the breakdown of the entire antenna. In the latter case of breakage, a gust of wind broke off the pole at the place where the rope was attached. And only the incompetence of the assistant led to the breakdown of the antenna as a whole;
2. In the second case of breakage, the section of the pole was clamped by the clamp, consider that the strength of the section was broken.
Although history does not accept adjectives, I still assume that if a rotary device was used for rotation, then the breakdowns stated in the first paragraph would be avoided, and accordingly there would be no breakdowns stated in the second paragraph.
For the mobile version, the Spider antenna made of Chinese fishing rods is quite a suitable option: lightweight, rather quickly assembled. In the case of using Chinese fishing rods for making a stationary version, a nylon cord should be laid inside the poles and the foam should be “blown out”, or even better, “sticks” from R-QUAD should be used. It will not be superfluous to additionally paint the poles with paint for outdoor work - i.e. UV resistant.
1. Dick Bird (G4ZU) - "JUNGLE JOB, or New Technical Principles for the Design of Compact Beams."
2. Radio amateur bulletin No. 6/14 of March 15, 1990, published by the Petrozavodsk club "Kivach".
3. Cornelius Paul (DF4SA) - Three-band directional antenna "Spider". Zh-l Radio No. 9 2003 pp. 64-67.
4.htth: //www.qsl.net/df4sa/index_spider.htm
5. Valery Gabdullin (UA0SGY); SPIDER antenna assembly design; cqham.ru.
6. Looking for a passport for an aluminum military semi-telescope 10 m; cqham.forum.ru.
7. Yu. Zhomov (UA3FG) - Antenna for amateur radio communication; radio station No. 4 1968; pp. 13-14
Transcript
1 Assembly Manual --- Tri-band Spider antenna df4sa 2002 Version 1.20 (Version 1-20, 2003) dipl.-ing cornelius paul adelberger weg 3 d breech
2 Table of Contents 1. Introduction What is a "spider" and how it works Checklist for assembling a "spider" 4 2. Preparing and assembling the center mount Preparing for assembling the center mount Assembling the center mount 7 3. Preparing and assembling the spider Preparing for the spider assembly Installation vertical mast Installation of fiberglass rods 8 4. Preparing and fixing the reflector and directors Preparing for assembly Harvesting wire elements Making wire elements Mounting the reflector and directors Preparing and installing vibrators Preparing Making a vibrator Making a balun Installing vibrators and balun Adjusting the CWR Supplement Lengths of elements for work only in CW or SSB portions of bands 23 1
3 1. Introduction By following this tutorial step by step, you will be able to make your own spider. The manual is completed in such detail that it is available for beginners as well. If you do not understand anything about it, send an e-mail to the author with a question. Any wishes are greatly appreciated. You can always get a PDF file with the latest version of the manual from the website at All components required to assemble the antenna are listed in the corresponding list. If there is sufficient demand, I will distribute a kit of antenna parts. The chapters in this manual describe the spider assembly process in the sequence that I would recommend following. It is advisable to read this entire manual carefully before starting to assemble the antenna. Each chapter describes two stages: preparing for assembly and the actual assembly. The preparation is done only once, and the assembly is done each time the antenna is installed. You may notice that most of the manual contains the description of the preparation work for the antenna assembly. But after doing it once, you can then quickly assemble. All you need to do is install the center mount, attach the fiberglass rods, attach the wire elements, and the antenna is ready. Assembly requires two 10 wrenches, a bag of cable ties, and some duct tape. The process of preparing and assembling the antenna for the first time will take you several days. In the future, with a certain skill, you can assemble the antenna much faster in no more than two hours. The preparatory work includes mechanical processing of aluminum: cutting, drilling, etc. The offered set of accessories will save you from this work. If you see such a sign opposite one or another part, it means that this part is in the set in a completely finished form. Included in the kit Each chapter of the manual begins with a list of all the required components. It is very useful to collect these components in one place before starting work to make sure that there is nothing "extra" left at the end of the assembly. Have fun assembling this antenna! Good luck and successful work! The installation of antenna mast structures can be dangerous. Please be careful and attentive. Use common sense in your work, use serviceable tools and reliable components. Any part of the antenna described here may fall or come in contact with a high voltage power line that can be fatal to humans. When the antenna is in operation, lethal voltages and currents may also be present in its parts, therefore it is necessary to install the antenna so that there is no possibility of contact with it. You manufacture and use this antenna at your own risk. Do not forget about your responsibility for your own life and health, as well as the life and health of those around you. Thanks for understanding! By following this guide, you will be able to assemble an antenna for your personal needs. Any commercial use of the antenna is strictly prohibited. All rights belong to the author. Any reproduction of this manual is possible only with the written consent of the author. 2
4 1.1. What is a "spider" and how does it work ("spider" = English "spider" = spider) "Spider" is a tri-band Uda-Yagi antenna for 20, 15 and 10 meters. It consists of three nested wire antennas, the elements of which are stretched on a common cross made of fiberglass tubes. On the bands of 20 and 15 meters, the antenna has three elements, and on the band of 10 meters, four. Unlike traditional Uda-Yagi antennas, the spider elements are V-shaped. Reflectors Directors Composite vibrator The active element of the "spider" is a three-band dipole and is made in the form of three separate dipoles for each of the bands, connected at the feed point. The antenna input impedance is 50 ohms. The spider gain and front / back ratio correspond to a traditional tri-band 6-7 meter boom antenna. This antenna is designed and optimized for use in the field. Its design is extremely light. In addition, it has very little windage. "Spider" is assembled by one person in a few hours and installed on a light mast. The next development should be a lightweight array of two such antennas for stationary conditions, phased using a design similar to that developed by the WX0B. The first three-element Uda-Yagi antenna with V-shaped elements was a design called "bow and arrow" proposed by G4ZU. I first heard about this antenna from the W9XR. In the literature, I could not find a description of its multi-band version and decided to develop my own. I am grateful to everyone who helped me do this, especially W4RNL, DF4RD, DJ6LE, WA4VZQ. And also many thanks to all translators: G3SHF and his team, G3MRC, 9A6C, YU1QT, LX2AJ, F5IJT, HB9ABX, EA2AIJ, I0SKK, CT3EE, OK1DMU, RV3DA. 3
5 1.2. List of components for assembling "spider" Quantity Description 1 4 Telescopic fiberglass fishing rods. Length 9m (see part 3.3) Outside diameter of the thick end - about 43 mm Outside diameter of the thin end - about 27 mm 2 4 Aluminum tubes. Outside diameter 48 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, length 175 mm. Important: The thick ends of the fishing rods must fit snugly into these tubes! 3 8 Aluminum tubes. Outside diameter 10 mm, wall thickness 1 mm, length 42 mm. 4 2 Aluminum sheet 220 x 220 x 1 mm. 5 2 Aluminum U-shaped profile 25 x 25 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, length 110 mm. 6 8 Bolt M6 x 60, V2A (V2A = stainless steel) 7 2 Bolt M6 x 20, V2A (M6x20 = diameter 6 mm, thread length 20 mm) 8 2 U-bolt M6. Bend diameter 60 mm, length 95 mm, length of the threaded part 45 mm Nut M6, V2A Washer M6, V2A 11 8 Tinned M6 lugs for soldering. Two of them are bent at 90 degrees (DX-Wire or Copperweld). Diameter 1 mm. Fishing line or nylon string. 1 mm diameter m Kevlar halyard, 1.5 mm diameter 15 1 Cable tie pack (100 pieces) made of black UV-resistant polyamide. Length 200 mm m Polyamide tube, UV resistant. Outside diameter 8 mm, wall thickness 1 mm Package with epoxy glue components Plastic U-shaped profile 30 x 30 mm. Wall thickness 2.5 mm, length 350 mm Plastic strip 25 x 2.5 mm. Length 500 mm PTFE coaxial cable RG142 or RG303. Length 290 mm Ferrite beads CST9.5 / 5/1 / 15-3S4 (or 50 ferrite beads Amidon FB) 22 1 Coaxial socket SO239 for plug type PL 23 1 Screw M3 x 10 with nut M Blade for soldering and clamping with screw M Coil diameter 20 cm, (sold in accessories stores). Sticky tape such as GAFFA (available from music stores). 4
6 2. Preparation and assembly of the center mount. List of required components: Quantity Description 2 4 Aluminum tubes. Outside diameter 48 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, length 175 mm. Important: The thick ends of the fishing rods must fit snugly into these tubes! 3 8 Aluminum tubes. Outside diameter 10 mm, wall thickness 1 mm, length 42 mm. 4 2 Aluminum sheet 220 x 220 x 1 mm. 5 2 Aluminum U-shaped profile 25 x 25 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, length 110 mm. 6 8 Bolt M6 x 60, V2A (M6x60 = diameter 6 mm, thread length 60 mm) 9 8 Nut M6, V2A (V2A = stainless steel) Washer M6, V2A central fastening 2.1. Preparing to assemble the center mount Prepare both thick aluminum sheets as follows: Drill a 60 mm hole in the center. Drill or punch 8 symmetrically located grooves as shown in the drawing. The slots should be 15 mm long and 6.5 mm wide. (dimensions in millimeters): Included in set 5
7 Drill two 6.5 mm holes in each of the four aluminum tubes. Using a saw or file, make two semicircular indentations 11 mm deep and 40 mm wide in each tube with a saw or file at one end. These depressions will allow you to fold the cross from the tubes in the future. (See page 7). Holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm Included in the set If your rods do not fit tightly into the tubes with the thick end, just roll up the sticky tape around them. If the rods, on the contrary, are too thick, then try to insert the tubes inside the rods, if necessary, reeling the adhesive tape on the tubes ... Now prepare two aluminum U-shaped profiles 110 mm long. To do this, drill two holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm and two grooves 7 x 12 mm as shown in the picture: Included in the set Included in the set Saw the ten-millimeter aluminum tube into 8 pieces, exactly 42 mm each. Sections of this tube will serve as support sleeves when assembling the center mount. (See page 7): 6
8 2.2. Assembling the center mount You are now ready to assemble the center mount. Clamp the four tubes between the aluminum sheets using the bolts through the grooves. For better fastening of the head of the bolts and under the nuts, place washers. When doing this, do not forget to install support sleeves inside the tubes. Without bushings, tubes can break. On one of the sheets, near the hole with a diameter of 60 mm, fasten the U-shaped profile with bolts, and on the other sheet, strictly under the first, exactly the same second profile. The U-bolts holding the antenna to the mast are attached later (see section 3.2). Install the tubes so that they fit snugly around the vertical mast Now it is clear why grooves were used to fasten the tubes, not holes: By sliding and expanding the tubes, you can attach the antenna to any mast diameter in the range from 30 to 60 mm. The long slots allow the tubes to be positioned so that the mast is well wedged between them. Thus, the mechanical stress is removed from the U-bolts, which only prevent the antenna from rotating relative to the mast. The chosen design of the central attachment allows the use of masts of different diameters with equal success, which expands the possibilities of using the antenna. Now it also becomes clear why we made semicircular indentations on each of the tubes. Without them, the diameter range of the mast used would be mm. In doing so, we must take into account that many different retractable masts have a diameter equal to 48 mm. Most of the structures that secure the antenna beam to the mast are designed so that the beam is on the side of the mast. In our case, the center of mass of the antenna is on the axis of the mast. In this case, both the weight of the antenna and the vertical torque are distributed in the best way, and the load on both the mast itself and the antenna rotation device is minimal. 7
9 3. Preparation and assembly of the spider ("Spider") List of required components: Quantity Description Assembled center mount. (See chapter 2) Vertical antenna mast. 1 4 Telescopic fiberglass rods. 8 2 U-bolt M6. Bending diameter 60 mm, length 95 mm, length of the threaded part 45 mm. 9 4 Nut M6, V2A 10 4 Washer M6, V2A m Kevlar halyard, 1.5 mm diameter cable ties, UV resistant. Length 200 mm. Sticky tape, such as GAFFA (sold in music stores) Preparing to assemble the spider Cut the Kevlar halyard into 4 pieces of 550 cm and 8 pieces of 430 cm.Take any piece of the halyard and fold it in half from one end at a length of 10 cm and tie a knot like this , as it shown on the picture. Repeat this operation with all segments of the halyard. As a result, a small (10 mm in diameter) loop will be tied at one end of each of the halyard segments: 4 x 540 cm 8 x 420 cm 3.2. Installing the vertical mast Install the center mount on the mast. Adjust the center mount to the specific diameter of your mast as recommended in part 2.2 of the manual and secure it with U-bolts. The top of the mast must be 50 cm higher than the center mount. Fix two cable ties to the vertical mast, one 45 cm higher and the other the same amount below the center mount. In the future, we will need them when installing vertical load-bearing guy lines (see chapter 3.3). Installation of fiberglass rods 4 supporting poles should be 5 meters long. However, the use of 5m plastic fishing rods is not suitable due to the thin upper part of the rod. Instead, they used lower sections from 9-meter plastic fishing rods 5 meters long, which are much stronger. Extend to their full length (5 meters). Twist the sections carefully until they are fully engaged. For better fixing of the connection, you can wrap it with high quality adhesive tape (eg GAFFA) and tighten a cable tie over the winding on the smaller tube. In this case, the connections will remain fixed at 8
10 years. If you frequently reassemble and disassemble your antenna, be sure to remove any remaining adhesive from the tape from your rods from time to time. If you decide to install the antenna permanently for a long time, then it is best to glue the attachment points of the fishing rods with epoxy glue. Insert 5m rods into the center mount tubes and set the lower vertical braces 4.2 m long as shown in the picture: To do this, at the end of each brace that ends in a loop, knit a noose loop. The process of knitting a "stranglehold" is shown in the picture .: Now, put the "stranglehold" on the fishing rod and tighten it at the junction of the third and fourth knees. In this case, the "stranglehold" rests against the cable tie already installed on the joint. Thus, the cable tie acts as a stop that prevents the "stranglehold" from sliding: Tie the other end of the cable tie to the vertical mast just below the cable tie, which we secured earlier forty-five centimeters from the bottom of the center mount. For fastening, use a marine knot called "knotted turns" (see illustration). This knot is very easy to untie if necessary. To tie a knot, make a few (three or more) turns of the brace around the vertical mast and secure the end of the brace with several knots. This knot is very easy to untie as the coils around the vertical mast are holding the main load while you untangle the end. The brace in this case prevents the unit from sliding up. The lower vertical braces are attached without tension, but also without sag. The tension will appear later when we attach the top vertical braces. 9
11 Now fasten the upper vertical braces, which are 4.2 m long. The method of fastening them is the same as described above. On the vertical mast, the guy wires are tied above the cable tie. Stretch the vertical braces as much as you can! In this case, the ends of the fishing rods will rise up. The lifting height depends on the tension of the lower stretch marks and should not exceed twenty centimeters. If it turns out more, then you need to tighten the lower braces: 20 cm Now you need to install the horizontal braces. (They have a length of 5.4 m.) The method of fastening them is exactly the same as for vertical guy lines: on the one hand, a "stranglehold" thrown over the tie between the third and fourth sections of the fishing rod, and on the other, a sea knot tied in the same location. The first three horizontal braces are attached without tension. All horizontal braces are tensioned when the last fourth brace is installed. The whole structure turns out to be easily disassembled, since sea knots and "noose" are used to knit the stretch marks. This completes the assembly process of the "spider" crosspiece. At the next stage, the elements are fastened. 10
12 4. Preparation and mounting of reflector and directors List of required components: Quantity Description Cross assembled according to the recommendations of part 3 of the manual “DX-Wire” or “Copperweld” (bimetallic wire, copper-plated steel)). Diameter 1 mm. Fishing line or nylon string. 1 mm diameter cable ties, UV resistant. Length 200 mm m Polyamide tube, UV resistant. Outside diameter 8 mm, wall thickness 1 mm Epoxy glue bag with 20 cm spool, (sold in accessory shops) Preparing for assembly Cut the polyamide tube into 14 pieces of 4 cm each and 7 pieces of 10 cm each Blank wire elements A few words about the bimetallic wire used for the manufacture of elements. In Germany, it can be found on sale under the Copperweld and DXwire brands. Bimetallic wire is a steel wire copper-plated on the outside. Thus, the mechanical strength is provided by the steel base, and the high electrical conductivity at radio frequencies by the copper coating. Those who have never worked with bimetal should be warned that the wire is stiff and springy. Bimetallic wire must be wound and unwound very carefully, turn by turn, only in this case it will not get tangled. Despite some inconveniences during installation, bimetallic wire has a number of decisive advantages: it does not stretch. This is very important in this case, since the length of the elements is very critical. Even one centimeter of length matters! In the previous version of this antenna, the elements were made of ordinary copper enameled wire. After assembling and disassembling the antenna, such elements were lengthened by almost 10 cm, which led to a shift in the resonant frequency, distortion of the radiation pattern, and in particular to a deterioration in the forward / backward ratio. it is light, it has a high permissible wind load, it is thin and smooth, which is important during icing, it has a low deceleration coefficient.The latter property is especially important in computer simulation of an antenna, since the properties of a computer model of an antenna made from such a wire and its practical implementation are exactly the same. This makes it possible to use lengths 11
13 elements obtained by modeling directly in practice without any recalculation. All this is not true for insulated wires, as well as for stranded wires. For wires with insulation, it is necessary to make a correction in the calculation results, changing their length by approximately 1-5 percent, depending on the specific type of insulation. Thus, I want to once again draw your attention to the fact that the lengths of the elements indicated in the tables are valid only for a single-core wire without insulation of the specified diameter (1 mm). The single-core wire also has another advantage: low noise level. The fact is that the oxidized surfaces of a stranded wire act like diodes, leading to additional noise. We hope that our arguments will help you understand why such a material was chosen for the antenna elements. The same can be said for the line. Having got used to the peculiarities of these materials, you will not have any problems when assembling the antenna Remember! Items must be measured as accurately as possible !! An error of even one centimeter can disrupt the properties of the antenna. The length of the elements cannot be measured with a household ruler in several steps. The accumulated error in this case may exceed ± 10 cm. All measurements must be made with a tape measure at least 11 meters long. Measurement and cutting of antenna elements must be performed on a flat, smooth surface (at least 11 meters in length), for example, outdoors on a site with a flat hard surface. In order to accurately measure the length of the element, stretch the wire with some tension. Ask someone to help you do this, or fix one end firmly. Bimetallic wire can be sold wound on a spool. When a piece of such wire is cut off, due to its elasticity, it immediately takes the form of a spring. Fix the curled piece of bimetal with adhesive tape and mark immediately. This will help avoid confusion later on. (After you have cut all the elements and guys, wind them on a reel for easy storage and transportation. (See page 14)) The lengths of reflectors and directors are shown in the table: Range reflector director 1 director 2 20 m 1051 cm 979 cm m 700 cm 647 cm m 527 cm 489 cm 489 cm Please note that in the next step we will attach the elements to the braces. To do this, you need to bend back two centimeters on each side of each element. These extra four centimeters are already included in the dimensions shown in the table. So, for example, the electrical length of a 20 meter reflector will be 1047 cm. 12
14 Making wire elements After you have measured and cut the elements to the required length, you need to put on a shock absorber tube on each element, and attach braces to both ends of the element. First, slide a 4cm piece of polyamide tubing over the wire. Then measure two centimeters from the end of the element and bend them down to form a hook. Pulling element (line) Element (wire) 2 cm Polyamide tube cuts Then measure and cut a piece of line, the length of which is determined in the table below. Of the lengths of stretch marks indicated in the table, 10 cm are reserved for knot knitting. Now cut off the "tail" of the fishing line left after tying the knot, slide a four-centimeter piece of tube over the junction of the wire and the fishing line and fill it with epoxy glue. Before doing the same operations with the other end of the wire, put on the wire a piece of polyamide tube 10 cm long.Now this piece will hang freely, but in the future it will be needed as a shock absorber when attaching the middle of the wire to the fiberglass crosspiece. Lengths of the lengths of the line used as guy lines: Range reflector director 1 director 2 20 m 2 x 207 cm 2 x 240 cm m 2 x 242 cm 2 x 301 cm m 2 x 292 cm 2 x 325 cm 2 x 423 cm Now tie at the end of each piece of fishing line, a loop with a diameter of 10 mm. To do this, fold the fishing line in half over a length of 10 cm and tie a knot as shown in the figure: We have already said above that the 20 cm necessary for knitting the loops are already taken into account in the lengths of the stretch marks given in the table. This means that, for example, the length of the band for a band director of 20 m, measured from the eyelet to the connection with the element, is 220 cm. The epoxy glue used to assemble the antenna cures very quickly in just five minutes. Therefore, we simply will not have time to mix a large amount of glue and pour all four-centimeter tube sections at once. Instead of kneading the glue many times, but in small quantities, we will prepare the required amount of glue and stir it for at least one minute, and then pour it into the tube from above. The glue will slowly flow into the inside of the tube. If necessary, you can slightly move the knot so that the glue fills the entire volume of the tube. Once the epoxy has flowed through, you will need to turn the tube upside down to allow the glue to flow back. Before the glue is finally 13
15 hardens, make sure the knot is approximately in the middle of the tube. For a few more minutes, the bond will be warm and the epoxy adhesive will be sticky. Then put that tube aside and start filling the other. After 10 minutes, the glue in the tube will finally harden. It is important to remember that although the epoxy-embedded tube is only four centimeters long, it shifts the resonant frequency of the element downward by kHz! If you want to choose a different method of assembling the wire elements, you will need to change their length accordingly. As soon as you complete the production of the next element, immediately mark it and wind it on the spool. In this case, the beginning and end of the element must be secured with adhesive tape. You can then wrap the next one over the previous element without fear of tangling or intertwining. For ease of transportation, on the same reel over the elements, you can wind stretchers from a Kevlar halyard, as well as vibrators. It makes sense to wind the elements and stretch marks on the reel in the following sequence: - vibrators of 10, 15 and 20 m ranges; - ref 10 m, dir1 10 m, ref 15 m, dir 15 m, dir2 10 m, ref 20 m, dir 20 m; - Kevlar halyards. This order will allow you to reel the elements and braces from the reel in the order in which they are required for assembly. Dismantling the antenna and winding the wires and cables on the coil is carried out in the reverse order. Attaching the reflector and directors Since you have already prepared the elements as described in section 4.1, installing them on the antenna will be very simple. First of all, decide which pair of rods will be the traverse and which will be the crossbar. Mark the attachment points of the elements on the crosshead as shown on the next page. Tighten two cable ties on both sides of the crossbar exactly 5 m from the center. They will play the role of stops that prevent the guy wires from sliding inward. Before you start attaching and stretching the elements, it is useful to fasten the crosspiece to the stand by lifting it half a meter above the ground. 14
16 The order of assembling the elements: 1. At the end of the brace of each element, tie a noose loop. The same as we have already done. After that, fix the element by throwing and tightening the "noose" on the crossbar behind the tie. 2. Unwind the element from the spool. 3. Fasten the other end of the element with a "strap" on the opposite side of the cross (see item 1.) 4. Attach the center of the element to the cross-beam with a cable tie, having previously pushed a ten-centimeter piece of tube into the place of the tie. In this case, it plays the role of a shock absorber and prevents the wire from forming a sharp bend under the screed. During the first assembly, it may be necessary to select the lengths of the guy wires and ensure the symmetry of the structure. The table below shows the attachment points of the elements on the traverse relative to the center of the antenna: Range reflector director 1 director 2 20 m 500 cm 500 cm m 260 cm 330 cm m 170 cm 200 cm 420 cm The error when attaching the element to the traverse is not so critical, as an error in the length of the element. A deviation from the indicated values by ± 10 cm in any direction can be considered quite permissible. Elements on the cross are installed in the "outside - inside" order: first the reflector and director of the 20 m range, then the 15 m range, etc. It should be remembered that the constriction of the "internal" elements leads to a weakening of the tension of the "external" ones. 15
17 5. Preparation and installation of vibrators List of required components: Quantity Description 7 2 Bolt M6 x 20, V2A (M6x20 = diameter 6 mm, thread length 20 mm) 9 4 Nut M6, V2A (V2A = stainless steel) 10 4 Washer M6, V2A 11 8 Tinned M6 solder lugs. Two of them are bent at 90 degrees (DX-Wire or Copperweld). Diameter 1 mm. Fishing line or nylon string. 1 mm diameter cable ties, UV resistant. Length 200 mm cm UV resistant polyamide tube. Outside diameter 8 mm, wall thickness 1 mm Package with epoxy glue components Plastic U-shaped profile 30 x 30 mm. Wall thickness 2.5 mm, length 350 mm Plastic strip 25 x 2.5 mm. Length 500 mm PTFE coaxial cable RG142 or RG303. Length 290 mm Ferrite beads CST9.5 / 5/1 / 15-3S4 (or 50 pieces Amidon FB) 22 1 Coaxial socket SO239 for PL plug 23 1 Screw M3 x 10 with nut M Blade for soldering and clamping with screw M Preparation Manufacturing vibrator Take a polyamide tube and cut 6 pieces of 10 cm from it, 6 pieces of 4 cm and 2 pieces of 2 cm long. The "spider" vibrator is a composite multi-band dipole. It consists of three separate dipoles for each band, interconnected at the feed point. Cut the pieces of bimetallic wire required to make these dipoles. Their lengths are shown in the table: Range Vibrator length 20 m 2 x 502 cm 15 m 2 x 352 cm 10 m 2 x 266 cm Now is the time to remind about the need to maintain these dimensions. After the corresponding piece of bimetal has been cut off, immediately mark it with a tube with an inscription. This will avoid confusion in the future. After the elements of the vibrator are cut, each of them must be cleaned and tinned from one end at a length of 1 cm. Then insert the tinned ends into the tinned lugs and solder them. The vibrator elements for the 15 m range are sealed into tips bent at a 90 degree angle. It is preferable to use stainless steel lugs. Their main advantage is that they are resistant to moisture, however, it is rather difficult to solder the wire into such lugs. You can take copper 16
18 tinned electroplated lugs commonly used in high current electrical circuits. They are well protected from moisture and well soldered. For a good soldering of the tips, use a soldering iron with a power of at least 100 watts. After the wire is sealed into the lug, slide a 10 cm piece of polyamide tube over the soldering site so that only a round area with a hole remains outside. To seal the solder joint, fill the tube halfway with epoxy glue. This is best done before the tubing is fully fitted onto the handpiece. During the operation of the antenna, the unfilled half of the tube will act as a shock absorber, preventing a sharp bend in the wire. After all the tips are soldered, guys are attached to the opposite ends of the vibrator elements. First, take the free ends of the 20 m vibrators. At a distance of 15 cm from the end, tie a guy wire to each wire (see figure). Slide a 4 cm piece of tubing over the assembly and fill it with epoxy glue. Tie a small loop with a diameter of 10 mm on the stretch, at a distance of 10 cm from the knot that connects the wire to the stretch. In the same way, attach a 70 cm stretch to the wires of the 15 m vibrator: Before attaching the braces to the elements of the 10 m vibrator in the same way, put on the wire a piece of tube 2 cm long, pass a 30 cm piece of guy wire through this tube and tie the ends of this guy-line together. This will make a loop 10 cm long. Place the looped tube 60 cm from the tip and fill it with epoxy glue. Tie a 70 cm brace to the wire. 17
19 Short free "tails" of the wires of each of the vibrator elements will allow us to adjust their resonant frequencies by optimizing the SWR on each band. Making a balun At the feed point, the antenna impedance is close to 50 ohms. Thus, there is no need to transform it before connecting the cable. Nevertheless, we will need a device that matches a symmetrical "spider" vibrator with a symmetrical coaxial cable - a balun. Since resistance transformation is not required, we will not use an oroidal transformer, which is difficult to manufacture and introduces significant losses. For coordination in the "spider" the simplest blocking choke is used. It is possible, of course, to use a choke made in the form of several (5-10) turns of the cable, coiled into a coil near the power point. But, unfortunately, the properties of such a rossel strongly depend on the geometric dimensions of the coil, the type of cable, and most importantly, on the frequency. In this case, the cable, coiled into a coil of small diameter with a belt, is destroyed. The coaxial choke developed by 2DU has much better properties (QST 1983, 3). It is a piece of thin cable on which a set of ferrite rings is put over the outer insulation. These rings effectively block the current flowing along the outer surface of the cable, ensuring a good match of the unbalanced cable to the balanced antenna. The use of a fluoroplastic cable in such a device makes it possible to operate in a continuous mode with powers up to two kilowatts. In this case, the balun described below can be used with almost any type of dipole operating in the range from 1.8 to 30 MHz. First, make the ballon body: Drill two holes with a diameter of 10 mm in the U-shaped plastic profile 350 mm long: Cut the plastic strip 2.5 mm thick into three parts: one 350 mm long, four 25 mm long and two 15 mm long. eighteen
20 Install the tab in one of the fastening holes of the SO239 connector, fixing it with an M3 x 10 screw and an M3 nut. We need the petal to attach the cable sheath. Now prepare the cable itself. Measure the cable length carefully. Otherwise, it may not fit in the balun body. Strip off 20 mm of outer insulation from one end of the cable. Unbraid the braid carefully and twist it. Carefully peel off 10 mm of inner insulation. Solder the lugs to the braid and center conductor. Also strip off 20 mm of outer insulation from the other end of the cable. Slip 16 ferrite beads over the cable, then unbraid and twist the braid. Carefully remove 10 mm of inner insulation and solder the braid and center conductor to the coaxial connector: Now place the coaxial choke in the housing. Using two M6 x 20 screws, four washers and two M6 nuts, fasten the lugs to the U-profile. Tighten the screws with great effort on them; in the future, the wires of the composite vibrator will be attached. (Since the screws are rather difficult to insert into the holes, the diameter of the holes themselves was chosen with a margin of 10 mm instead of 6.5 mm.) Since the structure tightness must be ensured only at the feed point and at the connector, it makes no sense to fill the entire balun with epoxy glue. Make three partitions, which are 25 x 25 mm plates. Make grooves for the cable in the two partitions. Install the partitions so that the compartments with the vibrator mounting elements and the connector are formed, which are filled with glue: Next, glue three more plates with epoxy glue, which will play the role of stiffeners: one on the left end (25 x 25 mm) and two in the middle ( 25 x15 mm). Then glue a 350 x 25 mm strip. She will be the lid. In this case, it is not at all necessary to achieve the tightness of the connection. On the contrary, it is advisable to leave a small gap to drain the condensate. This completes the assembly of the balloon. Since we filled in a lot of glue, it will take a whole day for it to completely harden. nineteen
21 5.2. Installation of vibrators and balun Installation of vibrator elements will not cause difficulties. All we need are cable ties alone. Following part 3.3 of the instructions, we secured the vertical mast so that it rises above the center mount by about half a meter. Attach the balun with cable ties or adhesive tape to the vertical mast so that the feeding point is at a height of 55 cm from the central mount .: Now, on both sides of the balun, use M6 nuts to secure the tips of the vibrator elements for the 20 m range. 20 m 15 m 5 10 cm Wires of these elements should go straight up. At a height of 5 cm above the feed point, they must be pulled to the balun body with a cable tie: 10 m Stretch the 20 m vibrator element along the rods that act as a crossbar. Thread the cable ties into the eyelets at the ends of the guy lines and secure the ends of the guy lines to the ends of the fishing rods. Moving the ties along the fishing rods, ensure that the element is in a strictly horizontal position. As a result, it will be at a height of cm above the base of the rods: In the same way, it is necessary to install the vibrator elements of the ranges of 15 and 10 meters. As shown in the figure, the elements of the composite vibrator should be located at a sufficient distance from each other. As with any multi-band dipole, the farther apart the elements on different bands are, the less the influence of each other on 20
22 friends they provide. The distance between the upper element of the vibrator for the 20 m range and the lower one for the 10 m range in our case should be approximately 50 cm.The vibrator elements for the 20 m and 15 m ranges directly near the feed point should be at least five to 15 cm apart (see picture). Otherwise, the resonant frequency of the antenna on the 15 m range will sharply go up, and will be out of the range. It is also very important to maintain the distance between the vibrator element for the 10 m range and the rod below it. In wet weather, a wet rod will degrade SWR in this range. When making vibrator elements for the 10 m range, we attached additional braces in the form of loops at a distance of 60 cm from the handpieces. This was done in order to increase the distance between the elements by 15 m and 10 m when assembling the vibrator. Insert a cable tie into the loop and tighten it on the fishing rod at a distance of 40 cm from the mast. Since even the smallest changes in the arrangement of the vibrator elements near the feed point greatly affect the SWR in the 10 m range, try to mount the vibrator in strict accordance with the figure. The free ends of the wires of the vibrator elements must be bent and folded in half. Congratulations! The antenna assembly is complete, and your "spider" is ready to go on the air! Plug in the coaxial cable quickly and go. Just one piece of advice regarding the moisture protection of the plug connection. Cut off a twenty centimeter piece of the bike tube and attach it with a cable tie to the bottom of the balun. A "skirt" is formed. Connect the cable connector to the balun and let the skirt hang down freely to cover the connector and the cable coming out of it. This method of protection is much better than wrapping electrical tape around the connector, and the connector can always be undocked freely. 21
23 6. Adjusting the SWR It has already been said that, if necessary, you can adjust the elements of the composite vibrator so that the resonant frequency of the antenna on each of the bands is in the middle. In order to perform this operation, connect a bridge SWR meter between the transceiver and the antenna and determine the frequency at which the SWR has the lowest value on each band. These frequencies are the resonant frequencies of the antenna. They need to be set in the middle of the ranges. The geometric dimensions of the antenna are made so that immediately after assembly, the resonant frequencies should be in the middle of the ranges by themselves. If for some reason the resonant frequency of the antenna has gone down, then you should bend the free sections of the wires of the vibrator element more, and if the frequency has gone up, then partially straighten them. Since the vibrator elements influence each other, you need to start with a range of 20 m, then go to a range of 15 m, and finally 10 m. When measuring SWR, the antenna should be raised to a height of about five meters. When the antenna is extended to the operating height, the resonant frequencies will shift, but only slightly. A VSWR of two can be considered quite satisfactory. SWR tuning is usually pretty quick, and you shouldn't be lazy to raise and lower the antenna once or twice in order to work with good SWR later. It's all. Enjoy your work on the air! (Where do we go next?) Spider antenna on 10m aluminum retractable mast What can be done next: In this direction, you can go beyond the tri-band spider and develop other antennas. With a standard supporting structure, you can place elements on it in a different way. For example, 6 elements per 6m range, 5 elements per 10m range for single-band performance, multiple elements per WARC bands. How about two 40m elements? The shape of the elements can also be different. Such, for example, as in the designs of Moxon Beam, X-BEAM, or HB9CV. All you need is an antenna simulator and new ideas! 22
24 7. Addition 7.1. Element Lengths for CW or SSB Operation Only The element lengths specified in paragraph 4.1.1 are optimal for full band operation. For operation only in the telegraph or only in the telephone areas of the ranges, the lengths of the elements can be optimized so as to obtain in these areas an improved radiation pattern with an increased forward / backward ratio. At the same time, the changes in the gain and VSWR are less significant, and such an antenna can be used in the entire range. The lengths of the elements for the antenna that are optimal in the CW sections of the bands: Range reflector director 1 director 2 20 m 1056 cm 984 cm m 703 cm 650 cm m 530 cm 492 cm 492 cm If you compare the lengths of the elements given in this table with the lengths of the elements , indicated in part 4.1.1, you will see that the elements of the 20 m range are lengthened by 5 cm, the 15 and 10 m ranges by 3 cm. on page 21) is unchanged. The lengths of the elements for the antenna that are optimal in the SSB bands are: Range reflector director 1 director 2 20 m 1043 cm 971 cm m 696 cm 643 cm m 523 cm 483 cm 483 cm If you compare the element lengths given in this table with the element lengths 1, you will see that the elements of the 20 m range are shortened by 8 cm, the 15 m range by 4 cm and the 10 m range by 4 and 6 cm, respectively. In this case, the dimensions of the guy wires must be changed accordingly, and the spacing of the elements of the composite vibrator in the vertical plane (Fig. On page 21) is left unchanged .. Please note. As in the table from section 4.1.1, the lengths of the elements indicated in both tables of this section are given taking into account the additional four centimeters used for the bend of the wire required to connect the element with a stretch. For example, the electrical length of the reflector is 1052 cm for CW and 1039 cm for SSB. 23
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This antenna has long been used in radio communications in various wavelengths, including HF. It is known as the Vertical Quarter Wave Finger, Ground plane (GP). In the centimeter range (Wi-Fi, 3G), it certainly has a small size and looks like a spider, for which it received such a name.
In addition to the quarter-wave vertical rod, a half-wave one is also used, such an antenna is called a J-antenna.
However, on the HF amateur radio bands, a completely different directional antenna design is used, also nicknamed the spider. It is important not to get confused here. Its gain is no more than 2.15 dBi (like a dipole) 
, in the horizontal plane it has a circular radiation pattern, i.e. is an omnidirectional antenna... The antenna has good repeatability and can be used in any range CDMA, 3G, Wi-Fi.
What's the point in such an antenna, you ask? And here's what. Let's say you have a desktop computer and want to connect to a Wi-Fi network. To do this, you have purchased a PCI Wi-Fi adapter. Of course, you can use it with your own antenna and not bother with it, but let's remember. It is quite possible that the antenna will fall into the dead zone of the interference pattern of the field inside the room. The likelihood of this increases if the system engineer is standing under the table somewhere near the wall. Then, in order not to move the entire system unit, the omnidirectional GP antenna will be very useful. In addition, in the 3G or CDMA band, if the modem switches to another base station when the signal is lost, the connection will not be lost, as is the case with a directional antenna. However, it must be remembered that the signal at the antenna installation site must be sufficient for normal operation of the modem.
The antenna design is very simple. 
To make it, you need an N-connector, a small piece of copper wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm and a soldering iron. The design is well understood from the figure. Dimensions (edit) A and B in the figure you can easily calculate using online calculatorantennas "Pauk "... The central conductor is usually soldered without problems, but in order to solder the counterweights to the mounting holes, you need to clean them from the protective coating with a file or emery paper and tin it well. The connector itself is pr 
should be held with tweezers or pliers, because it gets very hot when tinned.
The input impedance of the antenna is close to 50 Ohm, so it is necessary to connect it to the adapter with a piece of cable with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohm with mating male connectors soldered at the ends. No additional balancing and matching circuits are required.
The easiest way to make an antenna is a piece of cable with a connector, the other end of which is cut as in the figure: 
The antenna is quite suitable for any band, including CDMA-450. Such an antenna will already look something like this. 
As you can see, the "spider" has already become similar to the image from a science fiction movie. The connector is pressed into a plastic tube, the connection is sealed.
Usually such an antenna works in good reception conditions and is not tuned. If you need to adjust the "Ground plane", you can change the resonant frequency of the antenna by changing the size of the elements (smaller size - higher frequency). When the angle of inclination of the counterweights changes, the input impedance of the antenna changes from about 30 to 75 Ohm, respectively, with the counterweights perpendicular to the pin and completely bent in the opposite direction to the pin.
Spider is the best solution for the radio amateur.
For three years, he made 5 pieces (at the time of editing this article on November 28, 2015, the number of Spiders exceeded ten). Today I have a Spider on my roof and the second is in the garage - an expeditionary option, twice he was at rallies in Nakhodka, traveled to the reserves of Primorye (UE0RFF) and on all expeditions under the RDA program in 2010-2015.
The frame for Spider was made of fiberglass (Spider kit www. Quad. Ru), and from Chinese fishing rods.
The fiberglass antenna is strong but heavy.
During the expedition to the Khanka nature reserve (RFF-092) I used the Spider for the first time. The frame was made of fiberglass; an army telescope with latches was used as a mast. While the antenna was on the ground, there were no problems, but when they began to raise it, the lever formed by the mast began to bend it. It became very difficult to extend the mast knees and it took us 5 people to raise the Spyder to working height.
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Elements had to be made from a field worker, and from bimetal, and from copper wire in insulation. In all cases, the performance of the antenna did not deteriorate. It is really difficult to determine the shortening factor of each material. But now I do not "wrap myself up" on this issue, I measure out any material in classical sizes, and then I adjust it. In all cases, the element has to be shortened. The antenna worked from bimetal without any adjustment with classic dimensions. From the "field worker" I made an expeditionary version. 20 meters went without problems, 15 meters had to be adjusted. All elements had to be adjusted from copper wire in insulation. For those who will set Spyder from stationary fishing rods, there are some tips. Be sure to fasten the middle of each rod with a rope to the top of the mast and to each other. If you do not fix the middle of the rods (and their strength is not very high), then wet snow breaks them in half. I lowered my first Spider three times in the winter and repaired because of this. Tuning begins by checking the resonance of the vibrators. As I already wrote, in all cases, the elements have to be shortened, for this you do not need to cut the elements, it is enough to bend the end of the elements by 180 degrees and use plastic clips to tightly pull it to the element, thereby electrically shortening the element.
The setup sequence is as follows:
one . Vibrator 20 m
2. Director and reflector for 20 m.
3. Vibrator 15 m
4. Director and 15m reflector.
5. Vibrator 10 m
6. Director and 10m reflector
7. We re-check the antenna setting for 20 m and 15 m.
When tuning into resonance, do not pay attention to the SWR - this is later. First, we tune the vibrator to resonance at the frequency you need. I use antenna analyzers. It is more difficult to find resonance with the SWR meter, since the minimum SWR is not an indicator of tuning into resonance. Now we take up the SWR. To do this, it is enough to shorten the reflector and director in percentage terms by the same amount as you shorten the vibrator. If it's hard to count, then shorten it by the same amount. Shorten each arm of the vibrator by 5 cm (10 cm in total), shorten both the reflector and the vibrator by 10 cm.
More precisely, either the analyzer or the SWR meter will show you. Once again I remind the elements not mode, but bend and tighten with clamps. If you are mistaken, the procedure can be repeated, bite off the clamps and whether to increase the bend of the element. After setting up, I leave everything as it is, you should not "bite off". I took the design of the cross from UA0SGY (http: // www. Cqham. Ru / sp_ua0sgy. Htm), only fixed it with U-shaped brackets.
When configuring the analyzer, the settings of the directors and antenna reflectors are clearly visible (In the figure, the Spider has not yet been configured, this is the first connection of the analyzer):
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Sometimes they cause problems with the 10m setting.
The spider turns out to be tuned to the telegraph or telephone part of the range. The problem here is in setting up directors. The sizes of the directors turned out to be “the same”.
A small digression. All antenna elements are circuits tuned to a specific frequency. Two directors for 10m can be compared to a dual-loop filter. If the loops are tuned to one frequency, then the bandwidth of this system is narrow. This is good for the filter, but in our case it is bad, since the Spider is tuned to one of the parts of the range. What needs to be done to expand the passband of the dual-loop filter, to properly detune one of the contours. To put it more correctly, tune one circuit to a frequency higher or lower relative to the other.
We return to Spider. If your Spider turns out to be tuned to the telegraph section (the beginning of the range), then you need to shorten one of the directors, if to the “telephone” section, then you need to lengthen it. Which of the directors does not play a role to shorten or lengthen - any.
I am often asked what are the exact dimensions of my antennas?
I will describe one of the situations when setting up Spider.
